If you
are relatively new to surfing or if you have recently moved to a new
area and you are trying to find a surf spot where you will be both
comfortable and still be able to get some good waves here is what you
are up against.
There are
over 700,000 people who consider themselves surfers in California alone.
It is a big state but hey, it’s not all surfable. Then figure all but
50,000 surfers live south of San Francisco and about half a million live
south of Ventura. It is going to be pretty crowded in places especially
during the summer months. After September, unlike summer, the number is
cut almost in half but still pretty crowded.
My advise is to find a spot that is close to home but
not a big name spot that has a nice clean secondary wave where you will
not be competing against the most skilled veterans on their turf. You
need to feel very confident with your surfing skills and your
understanding of proper wave etiquette before you attempt to surf a big
name spot without getting in the way and causing a problem. For now be
willing to walk down the beach to the other peaks that are not so
crowded. There will be more waves for you down there and the vibe in the
water will be friendlier. Once you have found your little spot continue
to surf it until it feels like home. High tide, low tide, morning, noon
and sunset, get to know it inside and out. Along the way you will become
a familiar face and if you are nice and give some waves away the others
surfers who already surf the spot will accept you in time.
Surfing the premier spots should be a goal for you when you
are ready. Attending these liquid churches of higher learning can be
uplifting and down charging all the way to your soul. However, just like
in skiing and snowboarding, going up to the cornice after a few days on
the mountain is just not a good idea. Mostly because you can’t handle it
yet and you might get hurt, but also for the innocent by stander you
might take out as you fly out of control through the surf.
The good news is that our oceans are vast and wonderful
playgrounds with the worlds surf spots still only 1/3 surfed. Here in
Southern California there are not a whole lot of secret places left and
there are not a whole lot of secret spots left. We are left to ride what
we can. Luckily the surf here is very consistent with swells coming to
us from all over the throbbing pacific.
Avoid river mouths and lagoon openings, as water quality is
an issue at these spots and prolonged contact with the “stuff” can and
will affect you negatively. The most crowded time of day in the water is
in the morning between 7:30 A.M. until 11:00 A.M. and then again for the
evening glass off after the school and work crew paddle out. Mid day is
always the least crowded time of the day as the unfavorable onshore wind
can make the surf messy and choppy.
So remember, there is a lot of surf out there if you know
where to look. Be creative with your surfing lifestyle, break away from
the crowd or the thundering herd will mow you down. Take a walk down the
beach to those other peaks away from the bright lights of the main peak
and have some fun.
Kahuna Bob