So, you want to be a surfer? Before you get started, you should know this: that there is no more noble pursuit than to learn the ways of the waves and then to learn how to articulate your board in such a manner to cruise with the wave.
Later, after much practice, you will also be able to draw lines of your own upon these canvases of liquid energy. The goal is to master the elements so you can let your mind run free and excentuate the beauty of the wave with your ride.
To find its energy, to harness it, to run with it, to let it push us and in the end to celebrate its beauty and power with our own style and flair. The wave is our cathedral and we are its humble followers ready to meet the collection plate each morning or whenever mass is called.
Surfing, to us surfers, is no longer a sport or a hobby or something we do, its all we do. When we enter the freeway onramp, we are not driving our car, we are dropping in at monster mavericks at 60 mph. In the buffet line we remember to eat better because fat doesn't lie on a surfboard very well. When the office party is going to that really cool bar after happy hour we bail because we know the surf will be up the next morning.
These changes will not occur overnight, but a change will take place right away. A noticeable change, whether you are doing well or not, whether you are feeling like Wilbur Kookameyer or Kelly Slater, you will start to understand what surfing is all about. This is when you journey truly begins.
Understand that this will be the most difficult sport you have ever encountered, bar-none. On a physical level, of all the sports that I have been involved in, only long distance running comes close. On a scale of one to ten, surfing is a nine. Understanding the waves, how, when and where to catch them on an intelligence level only the game of chess would compare. Understanding the technique that gives the surfer the best chance to deal with the ever changing course which surfers ride is truly a difficult task much like the game of golf. Then comes the importance of balance, coordination and confidence much like in the sport of gymnastics. You see what I mean? It is not going to be easy.
Now, before Kahuna Bob scares you away, let me assure you that this journey you may consider is a very worthwhile one. Although not all of you who take this challenge will be successful, you will all be better for the trying. To those of you who feel the rush and smell the scent of a million waves ridden and unridden, you are opening the door to a fabulous journey that will stay with you for a lifetime.
We hope to help guide you through the rough spots and help you to discover the joys of surfing.
For the beginner surfer we recommend taking a beginner surf lesson with KAHUNA BOB'S SURF SCHOOL and you will be guaranteed a great time and will learn more in the two hour session then you could possibly try to teach yourself. With over 14 years of experience of giving surfing instruction I feel confident to get you up and surfing and having fun within your first lesson. I look forward to answering any of your emails, phone calls or questions in the future and stay tuned for my next column, coming soon.
Aloha for now.